Dior brings bursts of color and retro vibes to Paris Fashion Week


Guests presenting health cards on their cellphones had their temperatures checked and were greeted by guards under the marquee in the Tuileries Gardens where spectators gathered to watch the stream of arrivals, including the star of the K-pop Jisoo.

Dozens of brands will present their collections to an in-person audience in the French capital until October 5, closing a month that saw the return of fashion events filled with celebrities and screaming fans in New York, London and Milan after months of pandemic disruption.

“During the pandemic crisis, we made a lot of video films. I think it’s not the same, I think it’s completely different because fashion is something you do on a stage,” Maria Grazia Chiuri, designer of women’s clothing for the LVMH group (LVMH.PA), said in an interview.

The designer was inspired by the house’s collections under the creative leadership of Marc Bohan, known for modernizing styles by loosening silhouettes in the 1960s and 1970s.

Chiuri swapped Dior’s iconic fitted Bar jackets for short, boxy cuts, rounding the shoulders and pairing them with mini skirts and Bermuda shorts. She wove technical fabrics like diving gear, which added a sporty touch to the range of looks in contrasting colors matching tailored coats to dresses.

“I bring that reference in the silhouette, in the bold color and it’s also very graphic,” Chiuri said.

The designer redesigned the era’s go-go boots and low-heeled Mary Jane shoes, offering them in hot pink and bright orange, with white laces and rubber soles.

The designs included neon leopard prints and pastel camouflages as well as animal images that were enlarged and applied with embroidery techniques. Logos were stamped on the back of the silky boxing uniforms in emerald green and electric blue.

Models in bouncy ponytails circled a parade resembling a board game, decorated with artwork by Rome-based artist Anna Paparatti that broadcast ironic messages, such as “The Game of the nonsense”.

“The essence of fashion is also a game, people use clothes to perform, to describe themselves, to have fun,” Chiuri said.

Sitting side by side on risers, the audience listened to live music by electro-pop musicians Il Quadro di Troisi.

“It’s a strange new world. It’s different, but it’s also encouraging that we’ve found a way to all be together and experience the world of fashion,” said actress Rachel Brosnahan, who attended from New York.

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